Tuesday, October 2, 2007

CAT DECLAWING

JUST ALITTLE INFORMATION ABOUT DECLAWING WE THOUGHT YOU MAY BE INTERESTED IN,
When a declaw procedure is done, the entire distal phalanx (digit) is removed. It does not have the same effect that removing the last digit from a human has, however. The presence of the protective sheath over the digit, rather than skin tightly adhered to the phalanx gives a natural protective closure after a declaw rather than a sensitive "stub" end. Since the cat uses its feet for walking, orientation and use of the digit is much different, as well. If the footpads aren't disturbed by the declaw procedure (they should not be) the weight distribution on the remaining portion of the toe is essentially the same. Cats tend to use their foot as a unit for manipulation of objects rather than grasping it with individual "fingers" as a human does. This makes for less disturbance in their typical lifestyle than would occur in a human with the loss of a digit.
Without being able to ask them, it is impossible to determine if cats have problems with things like phantom pain or minor discomfort chronically after declawing. These things do not appear to be a problem but there is no way to be sure.

CAT DESTRUCTIVE SCRATCHING

Scratching objects to mark them is a normal cat behavior. This behavior appears to help in claw sharpening and to provide some stretching exercise for the cat. Outside cats tend to scratch wood objects. Some cats prefer a vertical surface and some a horizontal surface. Noticing which your cat prefers can help in dealing with problem scratching. Cats are also picky about the texture of the objects they scratch. Some become very fixated with one particular type of fabric and will not scratch any other surface texture. This can also be important in retraining them. Cats like to pick a prominent spot for their scratching, since they are partially doing this to announce their presence to the world. Putting their scratching post away in the corner of a seldom used room may not fulfill that need. It does no good to try to keep a cat from scratching furniture if an acceptable substitute is not provided. Most cats prefer a longitudinal texture (like the stands on a sisal scratching post which run in one direction, mostly). The scratching post should be at least 1 foot tall ,or long, depending on its orientation. Many cats like a bare, soft wood as a scratching post if fabric ones are not attractive to them. The sturdier the construction, the more likely it is that the cat will like to use the scratching post. If it can be placed in a prominent site that helps a lot, too. If the middle of the living room is not acceptable, putting the scratching post in a prominent site in another room might work ---- but away in the basement probably won't. Paying attention to providing an adequate site for your cat to scratch helps a great deal. When they still won't cooperate and leave your favorite furniture alone, it is necessary to discourage the behavior.
If possible, it is best to remove the object the cat likes to scratch while attempting to change the behavior. If removing the object is not possible, it can be helpful to cover it with plastic, which most cats avoid. Consistently punishing the cat whenever it is seen scratching can be helpful. Spray from a squirt gun is a good deterrent for most cats. Then take the cat to the scratching post and even run its feet up and down the post in a scratching motion (gently!). When you leave the house, make sure the cat is not allowed access to the room with an object it likes to scratch, if possible. Most cats will learn to use a scratching post if you are persistent in attempts to alter the behavior.
If your cat will not stop destructive scratching behavior, declawing is an option that may provide some peace in your household. In studies of this behavior, worries over behavioral changes or long term complications have been unsubstantiated. Most owners feel that no behavioral change occurs after declawing. While this should not be the first choice, it is an option. Declawing can be the difference between being able to have a good relationship with your cat or deciding to consider much less acceptable alternatives such as euthanasia or abandoning your pet. When that level of frustration is reached everyone is better off with the decision to declaw. Alternatives are clipping the claws regularly so they are too dull to cause much damage and using Soft-Paws or beads glued to the claws to prevent damage from them.

ALL ABOUT ABCESSES

Abscesses are a common problem in cats. It is hard to say why cats develop abscesses more frequently than other domestic species but there are several plausible reasons. A bite from a cat wound is more likely to become infected than a bite from most other species due to the bacterial residents of cat mouths. Since cats bite each other fairly frequently this is certainly one reason for the high number of abscesses. This situation is exacerbated by the tendency for cat bite or scratch wounds to have small entry wounds but to cause damage subcutaneously which becomes infected after the small skin wound is already healed. Cats also are prone to immunosuppressive viral illnesses such as feline immunodeficiency virus and feline leukemia virus which makes infected cats more likely to suffer an abscess after a wound.
Most abscesses start out as cellulitis, which is infection of the tissues under the skin. In some cases it is possible to prevent abscess formation by early detection of the presence of cellulitis. Signs of early infection may include lameness, localized pain, lethargy or reluctance to eat. If your cat exhibits any of these signs and your vet can determine that cellulitis is present early administration of an appropriate antibiotic may prevent abscess formation.
After a brief period of cellulitis, an abscess forms. The cat's body attempts to fight the bacterial infection by forming a capsule around it and flooding the capsule with a large number of white blood cells. This collection of white blood cells and bacteria is commonly referred to as pus. I f the cat is really successful at walling off the infection there may be a small abscess. If the cat is less successful at dealing with the initial infection the abscess may be very large. In this case the abscess may cause the skin over the abscess to die. The skin usually turns black and becomes very hard to the touch after it dies. It will fall off eventually if left in place but it is better to remove the dead skin to allow healing to occur faster and to ensure that the abscess can be properly treated. Abscesses that occur around the base of the tail are very prone to causing skin sloughing. Early aggressive treatment is best when there is pain or swelling around the base of the tail.
Abscesses are generally treated by opening them up to allow them to be adequately cleansed with an antiseptic. Abscesses can be very painful. If a cat will not allow an abscess to be opened due to the pain it may be necessary to use an anesthetic agent so that the abscess can be properly treated. If there is dead skin over the abscess is should be removed as well. It surprises many clients that this can often be done without an anesthetic agent, since the dead skin has little or no feeling. The live edges still have nerve endings and many cats do object, though. After the abscess is cleaned most vets will prescribe antibiotics. There is a wide variation in the way antibiotics are used by veterinarians in the case of abscesses. In general it is possible to treat most abscesses with ampicillin or amoxicillin since the majority of abscesses are caused by bacteria that are susceptible to these antibiotics. Once started the antibiotics should be used for at least three days and it is important to use appropriate dosages. It is not usually necessary to use antibiotics longer than seven days and it is often appropriate to use them for three to five days only.
Some abscesses do not respond to standard therapy. Almost every veterinarian who treats cats has run across an abscess that seems impossible to cure. If this happens there are a number of possible causes. It is usually a good idea to culture the abscess site in this case. If the bacteria involved can be grown and identified it helps a great deal. If the bacteria can be grown on a culture plate it is possible to try to kill it with a number of antibiotics and pick one that works -- at least on the culture plate. If it appears that a new antibiotic is necessary that may be enough to cure the problem. Sometimes that isn't enough to cure the abscess, though.
When abscesses do not respond to treatment with standard treatment and after identification of bacteria that can be cultured from the wound it is time to look for underlying causes or complicating causes. There are several things that cause abscesses to be difficult to treat. Feline leukemia virus infection or feline immunodeficiency virus infection can cause the immune system to fail to help clear up the abscess. Despite the "wonder drug" label, antibiotics often need the help of the body's natural defenses to cause a cure. Sometimes the infection is caused by an unusual organism that does not respond to the same antibiotics used for the most common bacteria found in bite wounds. Mycoplasma infections will respond to tetracycline antibiotics in most cases. Nocardiosis infections respond to sulfa/trimethoprim antibiotics used at two to three times the usually recommended dosages. Actinomyces infections may respond to very high dosages of penicillin. A newly recognized variety of bacteria, l-form bacteria, usually respond to tetracycline antibiotics. This form of infection may not be known to your veterinarian. It usually appears as an infection affecting multiple joints with several abscesses or draining tracts that does not respond to conventional therapy. The l-form bacteria can not be cultured in the same way other bacteria are so they are difficult to diagnose. Response to tetracycline may be the best "diagnostic" test available to the general practitioner since confirmation of infection may require examination of abscess contents with an electron microscope.
Abscesses vary in severity from a relatively minor problem that the cat's immune system will handle on its own to complicated, life threatening infections. It is best to treat them early, establishing proper drainage if at all possible, cleansing with an antiseptic and in most cases appropriate antibiotic therapy. Some abscesses are not going to respond to routine treatment methods and will require multiple visits and become very frustrating, both for you and your vet. If an abscess is not responding to treatment it is vitally important that you alert your vet and that you continue to work with your vet to resolve the problem. You may have to push a little for diagnostic testing or use of tetracycline based antibiotics to rule out l-form bacteria and Mycoplasma infections in chronic abscess situations since there is a tendency among veterinarians to continue to use broad-spectrum antibiotics in the face of resistant abscesses rather than switching to medications with a narrower spectrum of action such as the tetracyclines. It is probably not a good idea to use tetracyclines routinely since they do not work as well against the most common forms of infection as other antibiotics and because their mechanism of action makes them harder to combine with other antibiotic therapy to achieve a broader spectrum of action.
Neutering male cats greatly reduces roaming behavior and fighting associated with seeking mates. This also reduces the incidence of abscesses in male cats. It may be best to avoid the whole issue of abscesses by taking this preventative measure!

SIGNS OF SEPERATION ANXIETY IN YOUR CAT

Signs of separation anxiety in cats may occur when the cat is separated from his owner or another companion pet with whom he has a strong bond. A cat with separation anxiety may insist on being with the owner at all times, even following the owner from room to room. When the owner gets ready to leave the house, the cat may sulk and hide, or try to get between the owner and the door. When the owner returns, the cat may show an abnormally enthusiastic greeting.

VOTE FOR FAVORITE CARTOON CAT

VOTE FOR YOUR FAVORITE CARTTON CAT ON FRONT PAGE OF THIS BLOG,IS IT FELIX,GARFIELD,CHESHIRE OR KLIBAN?

CAT DISEASE FELINE LEUKEMIA

What is feline leukemia virus?Feline leukemia virus (FeLV), a retrovirus, so named because of the way it behaves within infected cells. All retroviruses, including feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) and human immunodeficiency virus (HIV), produce an enzyme, reverse transcriptase, which permits them to insert copies of their own genetic material into that of the cells they have infected. Although related, FeLV and FIV differ in many ways, including their shape: FeLV is more circular while FIV is elongated. The two viruses are also quite different genetically, and their protein consituents are dissimlar in size and composition. Although many of the diseases caused by FeLV and FIV are similar, the specific ways in which they are caused differs.
How common is the infection? FeLV-infected cats are found worldwide, but the prevalence of infection varies greatly depending on their age, health, environment, and lifestyle. In the United States, approximately 2 to 3% of all cats are infected with FeLV. Rates rise significantly—13% or more—in cats that are ill, very young, or otherwise at high risk of infection.
How is FeLV spread? Cats persistently infected with FeLV serve as sources of infection. Virus is shed in very high quantities in saliva and nasal secretions, but also in urine, feces, and milk from infected cats. Cat-to-cat transfer of virus may occur from a bite wound, during mutual grooming, and (though rarely) through the shared use of litter boxes and feeding dishes. Transmission can also take place from an infected mother cat to her kittens, either before they are born or while they are nursing. FeLV doesn't survive long outside a cat's body—probably less than a few hours under normal household conditions.
What cats are at greatest risk of infection? Cats at greatest risk of infection are those that may be exposed to infected cats, either via prolonged close contact or through bite wounds. Such cats include:
Cats living with infected cats or with cats of unknown infection status
Cats allowed outdoors unsupervised, where they may be bitten by an infected cat
Kittens born to infected mothers
Kittens are much more susceptible to infection than are adult cats, and therefore are at the greatest risk of infection if exposed. But accompanying their progression to maturity is an increasing resistance to FeLV infection. For example, the degree of virus exposure sufficient to infect 100% of young kittens will infect only 30% or fewer adults. Nonetheless, even healthy adult cats can become infected if sufficiently exposed.
What does FeLV do to a cat? Feline leukemia virus adversely affects the cat's body in many ways. It is the most common cause of cancer in cats, it may cause various blood disorders, and it may lead to a state of immune deficiency that hinders the cat's ability to protect itself against other infections. The same bacteria, viruses, protozoa, and fungi that may be found in the everyday environment—where they usually do not affect healthy animals—can cause severe illness in those with weakened immune systems. These secondary infections are responsible for many of the diseases associated with FeLV.
What are the signs of disease caused by FeLV? During the early stages of infection, it is common for cats to exhibit no signs of disease at all. However, over time—weeks, months, or even years—the cat's health may progressively deteriorate or be characterized by recurrent illness interspersed with periods of relative health. Signs can include:
Loss of appetite
Slow but progressive weight loss, followed by severe wasting late in the disease process
Poor coat condition
Enlarged lymph nodes
Persistent fever
Pale gums and other mucus membranes
Inflammation of the gums (gingivitis) and mouth (stomatitis)
Infections of the skin, urinary bladder, and upper respiratory tract
Persistent diarrhea
Seizures, behavior changes, and other neurological disorders
A variety of eye conditions
In unspayed female cats, abortion of kittens or other reproductive failures

Sunday, September 30, 2007

WE HAVE ADDED NEW LINKS TO THE ALLEY CAT FORUM, BARE WITH US AS WE ARE ADDING MORE INFORMATION DAILY, WE ARE JUST STARTING THIS SITE AND WANT IT TO BE FILLED WITH ALL KINDS OF INFORMATION FOR YOUR CAT!

ALL ABOUT KLIBAN CAT COLLECTING

If you are new to collecting Kliban cats, that wonderful funny black & white tabby cat from the late 70's early 80's, here is a simple guide to collecting the older original cat items. Rember all the newer items are marked JKliban, his widow who has started marketing Bernard Kliban's cat items on her own after his death in the 80's.
JUST REMEMBER THESE SIMPLE STEPS:
1. The items that were made by Bernard Kliban were tagged BKliban not JKliban(his widow).
2.The original shirts & sweatshirts were made by Crazyshirts Hawaii(no longer makes them).
3.The cookie jars,candy jars etc. were made by Sigma Tastesetter(marked on item).
4.The original coffee cups were made by Kilncraft England & have white base & white inside(not colored)
5.The original tennis shoe cat bank is made by SigmaTasetter & made very nice(marked) the copy cat 1 is made in Tawain, big difference in look & quality.
6.The older original calanders are in black & white not color.
So there you have a simple guide to collecting the most popluar cat items by Bernard Kliban.
The most highly sought after items are:
1. Cat hatching from egg, salt & pepper shakers.
2. Mom & baby cookie jar.
3.Cat sitting in cowboy hat.
4.Cat & phono salt & pepper shakers.
5.Cat atop phonograph music box.
6.Cat in spaceship teapot.
7. Cat christmas tree ornaments,in stocking,ice skates,jumping through wreath,sitting atop chimney,in train,in car.
We hope this simple guide helps alittle in understanding the difference between the old & the new Kliban cat items.