WHAT IS A CATS TAIL USED FOR?

The tail of a cat is used for balance, and for communication. Their tails help them when they jump or walk on a narrow space, and are also used for communicating fear, anger, and aggression.
A cats tail is one of the best ways of telling thier mood. A still, raised tail
means a friendly greeting. A sudden whip of the tail shows a threat of
impending attack. A highly excited cat waves its tail from side to side in
jerky, rapid motions. The top of a tail moving means slight dissatisfaction or
impatience. A relaxed cat allows the tail to hang straight down. A tail held straight out behind them indicates caution.

WHEN IS KITTEN SEASON

The time of year when cats give birth, flooding animal shelters across the nation with homeless litters. Kitten "season" is really three seasons in one, starting in spring, peaking in late spring or early summer, and ending in fall. PLEASE SPAY YOUR CAT!!

HOW DOES MY PET GET TAPEWORMS

Dogs and cats are most commonly infected when they eat intestinal worm eggs that have been passed through the feces of an infected dog or cat. Tapeworms can be transmitted to pets that ingest fleas or other intermediate hosts, such as small rodents, that carry tapeworm larvae. Some worm species can be transmitted to puppies and kittens through the mother’s placenta and milk.Most intestinal parasites can be diagnosed through a physical exam and the microscopic analysis of your pet’s feces. Your veterinarian can conduct the examination and fecal tests to determine if your pet has worms and then prescribe the appropriate medication and preventive program.

UPDATE-KILL OR NO KILL ANIMAL SHELTERS ARGUMENTS

The Quandry: "Kill" or "No-Kill" Shelters?
No Kill Shelters Only Accept "Adoptable" Pets You'll hear the argument that "no kill" shelters carefully pick and choose the animals they take in, to guarantee that they are adoptable.
Read the full story and others by franny syufy's About.com:cats
your guide to cats

http://cats.about.com/cs/adoptingcats/a/shelter.htm

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CATNIP AND YOUR CAT ! WHAT IS CATNIP ?

Catnip is a member of the mint family of plants. Its cousins include basil, oregano, and spearmint. All these plants produce essential oils that contain flavorful and aromatic terpenoids such as limonene, menthol, and spearmint.
The leaves, stems, and seedpods of catnip are covered with microscopic bulbs called trichomes, which store the essential oil until they reach maturity and burst. External forces, such as a hungry bug biting into a leaf or a passing animal brushing up against the plant and bruising the leaves, can also release the oil.
That the essential oil is contained inside the fragile bulbs may explain why cats are seen rubbing up against, and even chewing, the leaves. Cats gain nothing by ingesting the leaves because the biological activity of nepetalactone is most likely centered in the olfactory tissues. But chewing the leaves will rupture the tiny packets of oil and release nepetalactone into the air.Because nepetalactone is volatile and will degrade over time, cat owners should store catnip in a freezer to preserve its potency. That way, kitty's next 'nip trip will be as wild and crazy as ever.

WHY DOES A CAT HAVE WHISKERS

Why do cats have whiskers?
Also known as "tactile hairs" or vibrissae, whiskers are the long, thick, flexible hairs on a cat's face. These hairs are located in horizontal rows on the whisker pad, the puffy area between the top corners of your cat's mouth and the outer edges of his nose. Whiskers, like hair and nails, do fall out and are replaced. But whiskers are different from the cat's body hair in a few ways:
Whiskers should never be cut or trimmed (we'll discuss why later).
Whiskers are two to three times thicker than the cat's hair.
Whiskers are rooted very deep in the cat's face, in an area rich in nerves and blood vessels. In addition to having the long tactile hairs on their cheeks, cats also have shorter ones above their eyebrows, on their chin and on the back of their front legs. Since we are most familiar with facial whiskers, let's look at what they are good for:
Navigation
Mood indication
Measuring an opening Whiskers help the cat feel his way around. Whiskers are so sensitive that they can detect the slightest directional change in a breeze. At night, for example, this helps a cat slink its way through a room and not bump into anything. How? The air currents in the room change depending on where pieces of furniture are located. As the cat walks through the room and approaches the couch, he'll know which direction to turn based on the change in air current around the couch.
In addition to having sensory properties, a cat's whiskers are also a good indicator of his mood. When a cat is angry or feels defensive, the whiskers will be pulled back. Otherwise, when the cat is happy, curious or content, the whiskers will be more relaxed and pushed forward.
But the whisker's primary use is to help a cat judge whether or not he'll fit through an opening. A cat's whiskers are roughly as wide as his body -- sort of a natural ruler. The whisker tips are sensitive to pressure. You'll probably see a cat stick his head in and out of an opening before he puts his body in. He's judging the width of the opening, and is determining if he can fit into it. An interesting note: cats don't have a true collar bone, like humans. This allows them to turn and twist their way through very narrow openings

BEHAVIOR STAGES OF A CATS LIFE

Here are some normal behaviors for each cat life stage:
Birth to 16 weeks
Just learning her way around, your kitten may be playful, but most likely shy. Click here for more information on how to care for your new kitten.
16 weeks to 1 year
Your kitten will likely still be very playful and spunky. At approximately six months old, you should spay or neuter if you are not planning to breed your cat.
1 to 8 years
Your young cat is in her prime. Remember your annual visits to the veterinarian.
8 to 12 years
Your pre-geriatric cat may begin to slow down, but her behavior shouldn't change much.
12+ years
Your cat is entering old age. You may begin to notice some health problems. Your cat will move slower if her joints begin to stiffen. She may also become easily irritated.
Final Thought
In any health-related issue, whenever you have concerns about your cat, consult your veterinarian. He or she is familiar with your cat and her medical history and has the professional skill and knowledge to identify and treat whatever might be the problem.

WHY SPAY / NEUTER YOUR CAT

Spaying or neutering your cat prevents unwanted births and reduces the influence of sex hormones on your pet's behavior. In seven years, an unspayed female and unneutered male cat can produce up to 781,250 kittens. Homes cannot be found for most of these animals and many either end up in shelters or on the street. Only a lucky few are adopted; the rest are either euthanized or die from trauma, exposure, starvation or disease. By spaying or neutering your cat, you do your part to prevent this tragedy.
Behavior problems can also be prevented or minimized by spaying or neutering your cat. Sexual behavior in both male and female cats is reduced following surgery. In 90% of male cats, neutering eliminated roaming, urine spraying, and fights with neighborhood cats, regardless of their age when neutered. Female cats no longer show "heat" behavior (soliciting mounting from males). Overall, being sexually intact increases the risk of relinquishment to a shelter. There are, however, large individual differences and not all cats undergo a behavior change following spaying or neutering.

RINGWORM ON YOUR CAT

Ringworm is an infection caused by a fungus that grows in the dead, superficial layers of the skin, hair or nails. It has nothing to do with worms. The scientific name for ringworm is dermatophytosis, and fungi which cause the disease are called dermatophytes. There are approximately 40 different species of dermatophyte, each tending to cause infection in particular species of hosts. In the cat, the cause of more than 90 per cent of cases of ringworm is the dermatophyte Microsporum canis (M canis). This organism can also cause infection in many other species, including dogs and humans. Other dermatophytes that may occasionally cause ringworm in cats are Trichophyton mentagrophytes and M persicolor, (acquired by contact with infected wild rodents) and M gypseum, M fulvum and T terrestre (isolated from the soil).

How do cats become infected with M canis?
Ringworm is contagious. Spores are the infectious stage of dermatophytes and are produced by M canis during an infection. They are typically found in clusters around infected hairs and can only be seen using a microscope. Infected hairs are shed into the cat's environment. Cats may become infected either by direct contact with an infected animal or by exposure to a contaminated environment or object such as grooming tools, clippers or bedding. Spores in the environment are very robust and without treatment can remain infectious for up to two years. Spores attach to the skin and germinate to produce hyphae that invade skin and hair. It is not known how many spores are needed to start an infection. Self-grooming, particularly licking, may be an effective way of harmlessly removing spores from the skin and haircoat. Intact skin is very resistant to infection. Mites and lice are generally uncommon. The point being made here is that some degree of self trauma is probably required to enable fungal infection to develop and that ectoparasite infestation may be an additional predisposing factor.

HEARTWORM IN YOUR CAT

When it comes to heartworm disease, dogs and cats have a lot in common. But new research shows that in cats there is the potential for more severe reactions and even sudden death. Indoor cats are also at risk for heartworm disease. Cats get heartworm disease the same way dogs get it. Mosquitoes transmit the disease by biting an infected animal, then passing the infection on to other animals they bite.
Cases of heartworm disease in cats have been reported across the United States and many other countries. Heartworm disease is most common in areas where dogs are also at risk.
What are the signs?The most common signs of heartworm disease in cats - coughing , vomiting, breathing difficulties, weight loss, and lethargy - are often mistaken for other conditions such as asthma, pneumonia and digestive problems. In fact, most common clinical signs of heartworm disease in cats resembles bronchial asthma.
PreventionOnce a cat is diagnosed with heartworm disease, managing the disease can be difficult. Treatment, as well as non-treatment, is very risky, because there's currently no approved product for treating adult heartworms, and the onset of clinical signs is impossible to predict in cats that are left untreated. Even if the disease is treated, your cat may experience severe complications or even death when the worms die. Prevention is the best medicine. Ask your veterinarian about heartworm disease prevention for your cat. It will help give your feline friend the best chance for a long and healthy life.

GROOMING YOUR MATTED CAT

Here is a few tips to help you with dematting your cat.
Grooming your cat regularly with a brush or comb will reduce the occurrence of mats in the fur. Unfortunately, many cats wind up with matted fur because they hate to be groomed. Here's how to deal with the problem, which occurs most often in longhairs.

1. Attempt to remove the fur mat after the cat has eaten. Cats tend to be more relaxed after meals.
2. Adopt a calm and soothing demeanor as you approach the cat.
3. When the cat is relaxed, try to work out the fur mat with your fingers.
4. If the fingers don't work, get scissorsSnip down the middle of the fur mat, far from the skin. It's quite easy to snip the skin accidentally on longhaired cats, so work carefully.
5. Slowly work apart the fur mat with your fingers, Snipping away a little more if necessary. Reassure the cat in a soothing voice as you snip. If she becomes upset, stop and come back to the task later.
6. Once you've worked apart the fur mat and it's clearly away from the skin, cut it off.
7. Reward the cat's cooperation with a kitty treat or petting under chin, behind ears etc.
8. If the cat has several fur mats, remove them at separate times. The cat will quickly lose her patience after you remove the first fur mat. Build trust with a gentle approach and treats to make future grooming encounters easier.
9. Bring the cat to a professional groomer or a veterinarian if the cat is unapproachable, if the fur mat is in a delicate area or if the mats are extremely tangled cat may have to be given a tranqulizer to get the job done, sedation is much eaiser on your cat then the trauma. Even if taken to groomer might be a good idea to get a kitty relaxer pill from your vet first!

HOW A CATS BRAIN THINKS

FEEDING THE ORPHAN KITTEN

HERE IS A CHART FOR AMOUNT OF FORMULA YOUR KITTEN SHOULD BE FED:

Birth to 1 week: 24cc
1 week: 32cc
2 weeks: 54cc
3 weeks: 80cc
4 weeks: 104cc
5 weeks: 128cc
As a guide, a kitten should drink about 8cc's of formula per ounce of body weight per day.
HERE IS A FEEDING SCHEDULE FOR KITTENS:
Birth to 1 week: Feed every 3 hours (8 feedings per day)
From 1 to 3 weeks: Feed every 4 hours (6 feedings per day)
From 3 to 4 weeks: Feed every 5 hours (5 feedings a day)
From 4 to 5 weeks: Feed four to five times a day.

FROM 4-6 WEEKS OLD YOUR KITTEN SHOULD START EATING ON HIS OWN ALITTLE AT A TIME, AFTER YOU SHOWING HIM HOW OF COURSE BY PUTTING LITTLE BITS ON HIS/HER NOSE AND MOUTH.

CAT VACCINATIONS

HERE ARE THE CAT DISEASE VACCINES YOUR CAT SHOULD HAVE ONCE A YEAR;
1. FVRCP :
Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis and Calicivirus - viral diseases of the eyes, nose and throat (upper respiratory infection) plus Panleukopenia a viral disease of the blood and intestines (feline distemper or infectious enteritis).
2. FeLV :
Feline Leukemia - a viral disease that impairs immunity. Usually fatal.
3. Rabies:
a viral disease fatal to humans and other animals. Vaccination is necessary for all cats. Some rabies shots are good for 3 years check with your vet to make sure which one your cat gets.

DOES YOUR CAT HAVE EARMITES

These are the signs:
1. excessive and persistent scratching around the ears
2. head shaking
3. restless behavior
4. the ears are painful to the touch and the pet may cry out in pain
5. brown material present in the ears
6. a foul-smelling odor.
The villain is ear mites, tiny parasites that live on the surface of the skin lining in the ear canal. Ear Mites pierce the skin surface to feed, causing inflammation and discomfort. If left untreated,bacterial infections and loss of hearing may result. Kittens can acquire an ear mite infection from their mother. Ear mites can be transmitted from one household pet to another.If ear mites are present in a multiple-pet household or a kennel or cattery, it is likely that if one animal is treated, the mites will move to another resident. The best preventive measure is to treat all residents for mites. Left untreated ear problems can have very serious consequences such as:Inflamed ears, Painful ears, Chronic Problems ,Constant medication, Hearing loss,Discharge and odor, intense scratching, ear infections, Sores, Painful blood clots,surgery and high veterinarian costs.

RHINOTRACHEITIS-CAT DISEASE

Rhinotracheitis is a herpes virus. Just like herpes in people, it keeps coming back. It is almost certainly the most common cause of chronic, non-responsive conjunctivitis in cats. It doesn't respond to any anti-bacterial agent because it isn't a bacteria. Anti-viral eye drops are available but may not be very effective, either. There is some evidence that administration of L-lysine is helpful in control of this condition. I am not sure how helpful. It can still be useful to use an anti-bacterial ophthalmic drop but the best recommendation is to use one that will work well against gram positive bacteria, which is gentamycin's weak area. A triple antibiotic drop with polymyxin and bacitracin may work better than gentamycin in this case. This is especially likely in a cat that had pneumonia because of the high probability of rhinotracheitis being involved in that, too. Unfortunately, if this is the problem, chronic non-responsive disease until the body can finally develop immunity for a while is not uncommon. Sometimes, nothing seems to aid this process.

DROOLING IN YOUR CAT

Drooling can occur for a number of reasons in cats. Probably the most commonly identified reasons are gum or teeth disorders. Oral ulcers can sometimes cause excessive salivation. Problems that lead to nausea, such as renal failure or gastrointestinal disease also cause excessive salivation. Some cats salivate excessively when they are nervous or stressed. This is a common reaction to oral medications and application of flea control products, too. Your vet can help sort through these possibilities and hopefully find a treatable cause.
Foaming at the mouth or excessive salivation is common when cats have ingested something more noxious than they expected it to be, when they are nervous, when they have been sprayed with a spray containing alcohol (many flea sprays are alcohol based), when they are nauseous and with a few diseases such as dental disease and calicivirus. There are probably other causes. A brief episode is probably related to ingesting something that was upsetting. I have seen this after one of my cats ate a spider. Licking toads will do this, too.
Hair balls are obviously one cause of feeling nauseous. If you live in an area with heartworms it is another cause of the hacking and vomiting problem some cats have. Inflammatory bowel disease is another. Your vet can help sort through these, too. In general it is a good idea to consider pursuing a diagnosis of vomiting if it is occurring frequently and coughing is almost always abnormal.

TAPEWORM IN YOUR CAT

Here is the short version of the tapeworm.
Tapeworms release muscular egg packets into the intestine. These egg packets are about 1/2 to 3/4th of an inch long when they first exit the rectum and are capable of movement. They wiggle around, spewing out tapeworm eggs until they use up all their energy stores. Then they dry up and look like rice granules stuck in the hair of the cat.
Tapeworms are carried by fleas and are not uncommon in indoor only cats, due to this. Good flea control will prevent recurrence after your cat is dewormed for the tapeworms he has now. There are safe and effective tapeworm medications available from your veterinarian. They are prescription products so your vet may need to see your cat prior to dispensing them if it has been a while since his last visit.

MEDICINE-GIVING YOUR CAT A PILL

Here is directions to giving your cat pills.
Extend your cat's head backwards just enough that her nose is pointing straight towards the ceiling. Most cats will open their mouth slightly at this point. Open the bottom jaw a little more with the little finger or ring finger of the hand holding the pill. It may be necessary to hold her top jaw with the other hand while doing this. The drop the pill or lightly throw it so that it hits beyond the slight hump in the tongue. Most cats will swallow instinctively. Some pills are small enough to hide them in food. A good "last resort" is to find a compounding pharmacy and have them make a flavored gel or liquid out of the medication

FLEA LIFECYCLE

Even though flea season is ending we thought we would give you some information now so you will be prepared for next flea season.
Understanding the life cycle of the flea is necessary in order to control it. The flea has several stages to its life cycle. Adult fleas spend most of their time on the dog or cat - they must be dislodged to leave since they will not do so voluntarily. Despite this, when the flea population on the dog becomes excessive humans tend to be an acceptable alternative to the flea. The average life span of an adult flea is probably about 6 weeks - but fleas can live as long as a year under certain conditions. A female flea can lay 20 to 28 eggs a day. She may lay several hundred eggs over her life span. These eggs fall off the pet and develop where they land. They are small and can even develop in the cracks in wood floors or other small crevices. A larvae hatches from the flea egg. It takes as few as 9 days to as long as 200 days to go through its growth stages. At this time is forms a pupae and waits for the right time to hatch. Fleas prefer temperatures of 65 to 80 degrees and humidity of 75 to 85 per cent. This range determines the period of time that fleas are a problem in your particular area. For some areas of the country, this is all year. In others, the flea season is relatively short. It is estimated that for every adult flea found on the pet, there are about 10 developing fleas in the pet's environment.

CAT DECLAWING

JUST ALITTLE INFORMATION ABOUT DECLAWING WE THOUGHT YOU MAY BE INTERESTED IN,
When a declaw procedure is done, the entire distal phalanx (digit) is removed. It does not have the same effect that removing the last digit from a human has, however. The presence of the protective sheath over the digit, rather than skin tightly adhered to the phalanx gives a natural protective closure after a declaw rather than a sensitive "stub" end. Since the cat uses its feet for walking, orientation and use of the digit is much different, as well. If the footpads aren't disturbed by the declaw procedure (they should not be) the weight distribution on the remaining portion of the toe is essentially the same. Cats tend to use their foot as a unit for manipulation of objects rather than grasping it with individual "fingers" as a human does. This makes for less disturbance in their typical lifestyle than would occur in a human with the loss of a digit.
Without being able to ask them, it is impossible to determine if cats have problems with things like phantom pain or minor discomfort chronically after declawing. These things do not appear to be a problem but there is no way to be sure.

CAT DESTRUCTIVE SCRATCHING

Scratching objects to mark them is a normal cat behavior. This behavior appears to help in claw sharpening and to provide some stretching exercise for the cat. Outside cats tend to scratch wood objects. Some cats prefer a vertical surface and some a horizontal surface. Noticing which your cat prefers can help in dealing with problem scratching. Cats are also picky about the texture of the objects they scratch. Some become very fixated with one particular type of fabric and will not scratch any other surface texture. This can also be important in retraining them. Cats like to pick a prominent spot for their scratching, since they are partially doing this to announce their presence to the world. Putting their scratching post away in the corner of a seldom used room may not fulfill that need. It does no good to try to keep a cat from scratching furniture if an acceptable substitute is not provided. Most cats prefer a longitudinal texture (like the stands on a sisal scratching post which run in one direction, mostly). The scratching post should be at least 1 foot tall ,or long, depending on its orientation. Many cats like a bare, soft wood as a scratching post if fabric ones are not attractive to them. The sturdier the construction, the more likely it is that the cat will like to use the scratching post. If it can be placed in a prominent site that helps a lot, too. If the middle of the living room is not acceptable, putting the scratching post in a prominent site in another room might work ---- but away in the basement probably won't. Paying attention to providing an adequate site for your cat to scratch helps a great deal. When they still won't cooperate and leave your favorite furniture alone, it is necessary to discourage the behavior.
If possible, it is best to remove the object the cat likes to scratch while attempting to change the behavior. If removing the object is not possible, it can be helpful to cover it with plastic, which most cats avoid. Consistently punishing the cat whenever it is seen scratching can be helpful. Spray from a squirt gun is a good deterrent for most cats. Then take the cat to the scratching post and even run its feet up and down the post in a scratching motion (gently!). When you leave the house, make sure the cat is not allowed access to the room with an object it likes to scratch, if possible. Most cats will learn to use a scratching post if you are persistent in attempts to alter the behavior.
If your cat will not stop destructive scratching behavior, declawing is an option that may provide some peace in your household. In studies of this behavior, worries over behavioral changes or long term complications have been unsubstantiated. Most owners feel that no behavioral change occurs after declawing. While this should not be the first choice, it is an option. Declawing can be the difference between being able to have a good relationship with your cat or deciding to consider much less acceptable alternatives such as euthanasia or abandoning your pet. When that level of frustration is reached everyone is better off with the decision to declaw. Alternatives are clipping the claws regularly so they are too dull to cause much damage and using Soft-Paws or beads glued to the claws to prevent damage from them.

ALL ABOUT ABCESSES

Abscesses are a common problem in cats. It is hard to say why cats develop abscesses more frequently than other domestic species but there are several plausible reasons. A bite from a cat wound is more likely to become infected than a bite from most other species due to the bacterial residents of cat mouths. Since cats bite each other fairly frequently this is certainly one reason for the high number of abscesses. This situation is exacerbated by the tendency for cat bite or scratch wounds to have small entry wounds but to cause damage subcutaneously which becomes infected after the small skin wound is already healed. Cats also are prone to immunosuppressive viral illnesses such as feline immunodeficiency virus and feline leukemia virus which makes infected cats more likely to suffer an abscess after a wound.
Most abscesses start out as cellulitis, which is infection of the tissues under the skin. In some cases it is possible to prevent abscess formation by early detection of the presence of cellulitis. Signs of early infection may include lameness, localized pain, lethargy or reluctance to eat. If your cat exhibits any of these signs and your vet can determine that cellulitis is present early administration of an appropriate antibiotic may prevent abscess formation.
After a brief period of cellulitis, an abscess forms. The cat's body attempts to fight the bacterial infection by forming a capsule around it and flooding the capsule with a large number of white blood cells. This collection of white blood cells and bacteria is commonly referred to as pus. I f the cat is really successful at walling off the infection there may be a small abscess. If the cat is less successful at dealing with the initial infection the abscess may be very large. In this case the abscess may cause the skin over the abscess to die. The skin usually turns black and becomes very hard to the touch after it dies. It will fall off eventually if left in place but it is better to remove the dead skin to allow healing to occur faster and to ensure that the abscess can be properly treated. Abscesses that occur around the base of the tail are very prone to causing skin sloughing. Early aggressive treatment is best when there is pain or swelling around the base of the tail.
Abscesses are generally treated by opening them up to allow them to be adequately cleansed with an antiseptic. Abscesses can be very painful. If a cat will not allow an abscess to be opened due to the pain it may be necessary to use an anesthetic agent so that the abscess can be properly treated. If there is dead skin over the abscess is should be removed as well. It surprises many clients that this can often be done without an anesthetic agent, since the dead skin has little or no feeling. The live edges still have nerve endings and many cats do object, though. After the abscess is cleaned most vets will prescribe antibiotics. There is a wide variation in the way antibiotics are used by veterinarians in the case of abscesses. In general it is possible to treat most abscesses with ampicillin or amoxicillin since the majority of abscesses are caused by bacteria that are susceptible to these antibiotics. Once started the antibiotics should be used for at least three days and it is important to use appropriate dosages. It is not usually necessary to use antibiotics longer than seven days and it is often appropriate to use them for three to five days only.
Some abscesses do not respond to standard therapy. Almost every veterinarian who treats cats has run across an abscess that seems impossible to cure. If this happens there are a number of possible causes. It is usually a good idea to culture the abscess site in this case. If the bacteria involved can be grown and identified it helps a great deal. If the bacteria can be grown on a culture plate it is possible to try to kill it with a number of antibiotics and pick one that works -- at least on the culture plate. If it appears that a new antibiotic is necessary that may be enough to cure the problem. Sometimes that isn't enough to cure the abscess, though.
When abscesses do not respond to treatment with standard treatment and after identification of bacteria that can be cultured from the wound it is time to look for underlying causes or complicating causes. There are several things that cause abscesses to be difficult to treat. Feline leukemia virus infection or feline immunodeficiency virus infection can cause the immune system to fail to help clear up the abscess. Despite the "wonder drug" label, antibiotics often need the help of the body's natural defenses to cause a cure. Sometimes the infection is caused by an unusual organism that does not respond to the same antibiotics used for the most common bacteria found in bite wounds. Mycoplasma infections will respond to tetracycline antibiotics in most cases. Nocardiosis infections respond to sulfa/trimethoprim antibiotics used at two to three times the usually recommended dosages. Actinomyces infections may respond to very high dosages of penicillin. A newly recognized variety of bacteria, l-form bacteria, usually respond to tetracycline antibiotics. This form of infection may not be known to your veterinarian. It usually appears as an infection affecting multiple joints with several abscesses or draining tracts that does not respond to conventional therapy. The l-form bacteria can not be cultured in the same way other bacteria are so they are difficult to diagnose. Response to tetracycline may be the best "diagnostic" test available to the general practitioner since confirmation of infection may require examination of abscess contents with an electron microscope.
Abscesses vary in severity from a relatively minor problem that the cat's immune system will handle on its own to complicated, life threatening infections. It is best to treat them early, establishing proper drainage if at all possible, cleansing with an antiseptic and in most cases appropriate antibiotic therapy. Some abscesses are not going to respond to routine treatment methods and will require multiple visits and become very frustrating, both for you and your vet. If an abscess is not responding to treatment it is vitally important that you alert your vet and that you continue to work with your vet to resolve the problem. You may have to push a little for diagnostic testing or use of tetracycline based antibiotics to rule out l-form bacteria and Mycoplasma infections in chronic abscess situations since there is a tendency among veterinarians to continue to use broad-spectrum antibiotics in the face of resistant abscesses rather than switching to medications with a narrower spectrum of action such as the tetracyclines. It is probably not a good idea to use tetracyclines routinely since they do not work as well against the most common forms of infection as other antibiotics and because their mechanism of action makes them harder to combine with other antibiotic therapy to achieve a broader spectrum of action.
Neutering male cats greatly reduces roaming behavior and fighting associated with seeking mates. This also reduces the incidence of abscesses in male cats. It may be best to avoid the whole issue of abscesses by taking this preventative measure!

SIGNS OF SEPERATION ANXIETY IN YOUR CAT

Signs of separation anxiety in cats may occur when the cat is separated from his owner or another companion pet with whom he has a strong bond. A cat with separation anxiety may insist on being with the owner at all times, even following the owner from room to room. When the owner gets ready to leave the house, the cat may sulk and hide, or try to get between the owner and the door. When the owner returns, the cat may show an abnormally enthusiastic greeting.